Brinly-Hardy Garden Attachments

Brinley-Hardy Garden AttachmentsHow do you use a garden tractor to garden? With attachments from Brinly-Hardy. Their line of tools gives your mower the power to clear land and maintain soil, taking the work out of maintaining a garden or doing minor landscaping projects. Here’s how they can help you with your next project.

Why Brinly-Hardy?

All of these attachments are built using carbon steel for maximum durability. They connect to your garden tractor using a sleeve hitch, so they work with almost any tractor. These hitches are either built into your tractor from the factory or available as a factory accessory. Like all Brinly-Hardy products, these attachments are guaranteed for two years of residential use.

BS-38BH Box Scraper/Rear Blade

When fully assembled, the BS-38BH is a box scraper. This lets you spread out and flatten loose material, whether you’re evening out freshly broken ground or spreading out dirt and gravel. Take off the side plates and the scarifier bar, and it becomes a rear blade. Using the blade this way is great for pushing around large quantities of snow and dirt when you don’t care about getting a perfectly even surface.

Need to push heavy materials? A built-in weight tray lets you increase the pressure you’re putting on dense dirt and gravel. The blade can be used straight for leveling or locked into place at a 30° angle in either direction to spread material.

CC-56BH Cultivator

Why hoe by hand when you can do the work using this simple tractor attachment? The CC-56BH has V-shaped arms that move in and out, letting you adjust the working width from 18 to 40 inches for clearing anything from the sides of a garden path to open fields.

The height of the 7 12-inch spring steel shanks can be set by moving the adjustable control skids. As you drag the cultivator, these shanks bite into the soil, turning it up while shrugging off impacts with rocks. The ¼ inch angle steel frame designed to support added weight for digging into hard ground.

DD-55BH Disc Harrow

A disc harrow makes quick work of previously-planted soil, turning it to start fresh for a new growing season. It’s also great for breaking up and mixing virgin soil to create a new garden plot.

This attachment has 11-inch diameter discs made from 13-gauge steel. By adjusting the frame, the discs can be set to a 10, 15 or 20-degree angle to get the right cutting aggressiveness. Depending on the angle, this attachment has a working width ranging from 29 to 39 inches.

The frame has a built-in tray that can hold one or two cinder blocks. This added weight helps the discs cut into hard ground and virgin soil.

Two of these harrows can be bolted together to make one large tandem unit. When combined, the inner discs throw dirt out, while the outer discs throw it in, keeping dirt from spilling past the area you’re working.

PP-51BH Moldboard Plow

Moldboard plows are an antique design, but they’re still effective. Its simple, curved plate design reaches the desired cutting depth automatically without extra weight, reducing the stress on the attachment and your tractor. As it cuts, the soil is inverted, stopping the growth of surface weeds. This makes it easier to break new ground with the plow than it is with a tiller. The channels it leaves behind are ideal for planting seeds and running irrigation lines.

The PP-51BH uses a ¼ inch steel plowshare that adjusts to cut an 8 to 10-inch width furrow. The included 13 gauge steel colter adjusts without needing tools, making it easy to get the furrow shape you need.

Visit Shank’s Lawn Equipment for All of Your Small Equipment Needs

From Brinly-Hardy attachments to Scag mowers, if it’s used for lawn care, you can find it at Shank’s. We’re an authorized dealer for many popular equipment and engine brands, making us your best source for professional and residential lawn care equipment. Visit us at 4900 Molly Pitcher Highway, Chambersburg, PA.

We also ship OEM parts and accessories across the U.S. and Canada for everything we sell. If you need something for your equipment, visit us at www.shankslawn.com.

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How to Fix a Mower That Won’t Start

Honda Push MowerAre you having trouble getting your mower to start? Does it run fine for a while, then shut off when it warms up? This guide will help you located and troubleshoot common problems that can keep your mower’s engine from starting and running.

Before You Begin

If the engine was running, it could stay hot for up to half an hour. Give the mower some time to cool down, and avoid touching the exhaust and cylinder head.

Disconnect the spark plugs. When working on your engine, there’s always a chance that bumping the blade, driveshaft or starter will start the engine.

When tilting walk-behind mowers, keep the carburetor pointed up. If you flip the mower the other way, the gravity-fed fuel system will flood the carburetor.

Oil

Professional and high-end consumer engines from Honda, Briggs & Stratton, Vanguard, Subaru and Kohler have built-in shut-off switches that keep the engine from running with low oil. If a float inside the crankcase gets too low, it will cut the ignition. If the engine won’t start or shuts off suddenly, make sure it has plenty of oil.

The oil level isn’t measured the same way in all engines. All dipsticks that push into the filler neck should be fully inserted to get an accurate reading. On most engines, the dipstick needs to be inserted but not screwed in to get an accurate reading. Some Briggs & Stratton engines have a dipstick that needs to be fully threaded into the fill port to get an accurate reading.

Fuel

Does your carburetor have a priming bulb? You should feel and hear gas squirting when you push the bulb. If it doesn’t want to prime, you may need to rebuild your carburetor to get a tight seal.

Only use automotive gasoline with a maximum of 10% ethanol or 5% methanol. Higher amounts of ethanol will lean out the air/fuel mixture, while methanol will damage the fuel system.

Modern fuel goes stale quickly. Kawasaki recommends draining fuel from their engines if they are stored for more than 30 days. Other manufacturers recommend draining fuel after 30 days if it’s untreated, or 90 days if it was treated with a stabilizer.

Stale fuel can clog the engine’s fuel system, causing corrosion or leaving behind varnish that freezes components in place and clogs lines and valves. Give the carburetor, tank and fuel lines a thorough cleaning to remove these deposits.

Spark

Your mower’s engine needs a good spark to ignite the fuel. Check the spark plug wires, making sure they’re solidly connected to the plugs. Remove the spark plugs and check their condition and gap. Replace the plugs if they’re fouled or damaged.

To test the coil, remove the spark plug and connect it to the wire. Hold the end of the plug against a metal part of the engine and pull the starter. If the coil is working, you should see a spark between the electrodes.

Air Filter

A clogged filter will keep the engine from getting the air it needs to run. Clean paper filters by striking them against a hard surface. This loosens surface dirt without clogging the surface pores on the filter.

Wash foam filters in soapy water and let them dry. Check your manual for full cleaning instructions: some filters need to be soaked in oil, while others should be left dry.

Wipe out any dirt inside the air box before reinstalling the filter. Vortex separators used on commercial engines gather dirt quickly and need frequent cleaning.

Hard Pulling Starter

Check the deck for debris and clumps of grass that may be jamming the blade. Removing these blockages and cutting away grass wrapped around the crankshaft is usually enough to free the engine.

A flooded engine will be hard to turn over. Remove the spark plug, place a rag in front of the spark plug hole, and pull the starter a few times. This will push out any oil or gas in the combustion chamber.

Operator Presence Switch

Modern mowers have a switch that either cuts the ignition or applies a flywheel brake if the operator leaves the mower.

If you have a walk-behind mower, make sure the bail is pulling the attached cable tight when closed. Some handles have two holes, letting you reposition a stretched cable to take up the slack. On other mowers, you’ll need to replace the cable once it’s loose.

If you have a riding mower, make sure the seat and footplate are locked down. This can prevent the switches from activating when you’re in the seat.

Get the Parts and Service You Need to Fix Your Mower

No matter what powers your mower, you can get the parts and help you need for your mower at Shank’s Lawn Equipment. We’re an authorized dealer for all major engine brands including Honda Engines, Kohler Engines, Kawasaki Engines USA, Briggs & Stratton, Vanguard and Subaru Power.
Our shop is at 4900 Molly Pitcher Highway in Chambersburg, PA. We’re just one mile from I-81.

We also ship parts and accessories across the U.S. and Canada. If you need something for your mower, visit us online at www.shankslawn.com.

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Brinly-Hardy ST-25BH Tow-Behind Sprayer

Brinley-Hardy ST-25BH Tow-Behind SprayerApplying fertilizers, herbicides and pesticides can be time-consuming, and if they aren’t applied accurately, they can damage plants instead of helping them. That’s why Brinly-Hardy makes the ST-25BH. This tow-behind sprayer has a robust, easy-to-maintain design that limits wind drift and has a collapsible boom. This cuts operation costs, reduces chemical costs, and simplifies storage and transport.

Tank

This update to their ST15BH comes with a larger 25-gallon tank. There’s a large mouth opening for adding water and chemicals, while an extended drain at the base makes it easy to empty and wash the tank after use.

Sprayer

There are two ways to apply landscaping chemicals with the ST-25BH: using the built-in boom for wide applications or a wand for spot applications.

The booms are collapsible, using swing-away arms attached to thumb knobs. The booms are a total of 41.5 inches wide with the arms folded out, spraying chemicals over a 90-inch wide area. When the arms are folded, the width of the trailer is nearly halved, making it easy to store or load on a trailer.

The hand sprayer connects to the pump using a 12-foot hose and has a long wand designed for pinpoint application. The ergonomic handle uses a fencing foil-style grip with a top-mounted thumb control. This keeps the wrist relaxed and the arm position low, resulting in less fatigue than pistol grip wands.

Both the wand and booms use Ultra Lo-Drift spray tips reduce wind drifts, so chemicals land where you need them. These have two inlets that mix air into the liquid, creating air-filled droplets that drift far less than chemicals sprayed by conventional low drift and fan tips.

Power and Capacity

A top-mounted 12-volt pump moves liquid from the tank to the spray heads at a maximum rate of 1.8 gallons per minute at 75 PSI. It connects to the tractor’s battery using an included wiring harness with a built-in switch. This lets you turn the pump on and off from the mower’s operator position. A quick disconnect lets the harness stay on the tractor when the sprayer is unhitched, and an inline fuse prevents shorts and overloading.

When towing the sprayer, the nozzles on the booms apply 56.5 gallons of fluid per acre at 2 MPH, dropping to 22.5 gallons per acre at 5 mph. The hand sprayer keeps a steady pressure of 60 PSI, spraying continuously for up to 30 minutes from a full tank.

Durability

The tank and sprayer mount to a powder-coated two-piece steel frame. All components used in the ST-25BH from the tank to the spray tips are made from non-corrosive materials to handle a wide range of lawn chemicals. The only maintenance items on the entire trailer are the pneumatic tires and wheel bearings.

Compatibility

The complete unit weighs 53 lbs. when assembled, and 260 lbs. with a filled tank. This puts it well within the tow limit of most lawn mowers and garden tractors, but it’s a little too heavy for commercial ZTRs. The tow bar works with garden tractor pin hitches.

If You Use Outdoor Equipment, You Need Shank’s

If you’re looking to upgrade your lawn care arsenal, visit Shank’s Lawn Equipment. We’re an authorized dealer for a wide range of equipment manufacturers from major mower brands to niche manufacturers like Brinly-Hardy. We also offer parts and service for everything we sell. Visit our shop at 4900 Molly Pitcher Highway, Chambersburg, Pennsylvania.

Not in the area? We also ship OEM parts and accessories across the United States and Canada. To order, visit www.shankslawn.com.

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Maintaining Your Kawasaki FR Series Engine

Kawasaki FR-SeriesIf you’ve ever looked at buying a professional lawn tractor or zero turn mower, you’ve at least considered a Kawasaki FR-Series. Wright, Woods, and Scag are just some of the brands that use these engines for their commercial grade equipment. Here’s what you need to know to maintain your Kawasaki FR651V, FR691V or FR730V.

Maintenance Schedule

After the first 8 hours of operation
– Change the oil.

Every 100 hours
– Clean the paper air filter element.
– Clean the cylinders and fins.
– Check nuts and screws on the engine for tightness.
– Change the oil.
– Clean and gap the spark plugs.

Every 200 hours
– Change the oil filter

Every Year or 200 hours
– Replace the paper air filter element

Every 300 hours
– Clean the combustion chambers
– Check the valve clearance
– Clean and lap the valve seats

Kawasaki recommends draining the fuel system if the engine is stored for more than 30 days.

Oil

Kawasaki recommends SAE 10W-40 for most operating conditions, but you may need a different oil for extreme heat or if you use your mower with snow clearing attachments. 20W-50 is recommended for temperatures over 104°F, and 5W-20 for temperatures below 32°F.

Check the engine oil level before each use. When checking the oil, the dipstick should be inserted into the filler neck, but not screwed in. Add oil if the level is below the “ADD” mark on the dipstick.

To change the oil, warm up the engine, and park the equipment on a level surface. Shut off the engine. Remove the drain plug directly below the oil filter.

To change the filter, drain the oil, then unscrew the filter by turning it counter-clockwise. Coat the seal on the new filter with new engine oil, then screw it onto the engine. Once it seats, turn the filter another ¾ turn to get a good seal.

The FR651V, FR691V, and FR730V all hold 1.9 quarts of oil with the filter installed. When replacing the oil filter, add 2.2 quarts of oil to top off both the crankcase and the filter. After changing the filter, run the engine for three minutes to circulate oil through the lubrication system. Shut off the engine, check for leaks around the filter, and check the oil level. Add more oil as needed.

Air Filter

The filter is behind a door on the top front of the engine. To clean the air filter, tap it against a hard surface. This loosens surface dirt and debris between the filter fins.

Spark Plugs

The plugs are next to the valve covers, labeled “OHV V-VALVE.” Unplug the spark plug caps, then unscrew the plugs using a socket.

Use a wire brush to remove carbon deposits. Gap the electrodes to 0.030 inches (0.75 mm.)
When installing the plugs, thread them in by hand to avoid cross-threading. Tighten them to 16 ft-lbs.

Engine Cleaning

Check the rotary screen on top of the engine before each use, removing any grass or other debris.

To clean the cylinders and fins, remove the air filter. Next, remove the fan housing. It’s held on by bolts at the front and rear of the engine, and in line with the oil filter. Use a brush or dry rag to wipe away debris and dirt buildup from the engine, then install the shroud and air filter.

Fuel System and Storage

Kawasaki recommends using a stabilizer with fuel that will be in the engine for more than two weeks. Drain the fuel system if the engine will be stored for more than a month.

1. Clean the engine.
2. Close the fuel valve. Remove the sediment bowl directly below the valve.
3. Place a container under the valve.
4. Open the fuel valve. This will drain all of the fuel inside the engine aside from the carburetor. Once the system is empty, install the sediment bowl.
5. Start the engine and let it run until it stalls. This will burn off the remaining fuel inside the carburetor.
6. Once the engine is cool, remove the spark plugs and add one or two drops of engine oil to each cylinder. Turn the engine over a few times to circulate the oil.
7. Install the spark plugs. Lightly tug on the starter until you feel resistance. This positions the valve train so that the valves are closed, sealing the combustion chambers.

Get Pro Support for Your Pro Equipment

Shank’s Lawn Equipment is an authorized dealer for Kawasaki Engines and many of the brands that use them. If you need parts or service for your FR-Series, or you’re looking for Kawasaki-powered equipment, come see us. Our shop is located at 4900 Molly Pitcher Highway in Chambersburg, Pennsylvania. That’s one mile East of I-81.

We also ship OEM parts and accessories for the brands we carry. If you live in the U.S. or Canada, visit www.shankslawn.com.

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How to Keep the Engines In Your Equipment from Overheating

engine overheatingWhether it’s in a V-twin in a mower or a two-stroke in a string trimmer, the engines in your outdoor equipment can overheat when subjected to extreme summer temperatures. Left unchecked, metal parts will expand, increasing wear and possibly seizing, requiring a pricey rebuild. These tips will help you keep your equipment cool, extending the life of their engines.

Dirt

Most small engines are air-cooled. They use fins on the cylinder head and block provide the surface area needed to transfer heat from the engine to the outside air. As you use your equipment, these fins get covered in dirt. This reduces their ability to shed heat, increasing engine temperatures.

To remove dirt and dust, wipe down the fins with a stiff brush or a cloth to remove build-up. Never use water when cleaning your engine: it can get inside, causing rust and possibly hydro-locking. Some Kawasaki V-Twins have inspection/clean-out ports built into the cowling. Blowing compressed air through these ports cleans the cylinders.

Liquid-cooled engines transfer heat to coolant which passes through a radiator. This radiator has small metal fins that transfer heat to the air, just like an air-cooled engine. Kohler recommends cleaning the radiator on their Aegis engines every 100 hours of operation. They make cleaning kits that can reach the entire radiator without having to remove parts from the engine.

Air Flow

An air-cooled engine in a motorcycle sits out in the open, taking advantage of the bike’s high speeds to keep cool. The engines on your lawn equipment move slowly, and generators don’t move at all. This requires an alternate way to get air.

If you look into the screen on the front or top of your engine, you’ll see the flywheel is covered in small fins. It acts as a cage fan when the engine is running, drawing in air and pushing it across the surface of the engine. The cowling isn’t just there for looks: It helps direct this air.

To work effectively, the screen needs to be clear of grass and debris, while the cowling needs to be clean and intact.

Oil

Motor oil doesn’t just lubricate the engine, it helps transfer heat from the combustion chamber to the rest of the head and block. This helps the cooling system has an easier time removing it from the engine.

Air-cooled engines get a lot hotter than liquid-cooled engines. With the added stress of summer heat, this can burn off low viscosity conventional oils. To combat this, most manufacturers recommend using either a heavier oil or a synthetic at higher temperatures.

– Briggs & Stratton and Vanguard recommends checking the oil in their engines frequently if they’re used with 10W30 or SAE30 above 80°F due to increased oil consumption. Switching to a 5W20 synthetic or their 15W50 synthetic oil prevents oil burning at high operating temperatures.

– Honda recommends 10W30 in most of their engines for all temperature ranges.

– Subaru recommends 10W40 in their single cylinder engines.

– Kawasaki recommends 10W40 up to 100°F and 20W50 up to 115°F.

All commercial duty and high-end consumer engines made today have sensors that cut the ignition if the oil level is too low. However, it’s good practice on any engine to check the oil level before startup.

Coolant

The Kohler Aegis uses a liquid cooling system for better performance over a wide range of temperatures. Like the engine in your car, it needs the right amount of clean, fresh coolant to manage engine temperatures.

Before using your Aegis-powered equipment, check the overflow tank behind the radiator. Add coolant if the level is below the “Add” mark.

Kohler recommends changing the coolant in their Aegis engines every two years or 1,000 hours of operation.

Fuel

If the engine doesn’t get enough fuel, combustion chamber temperatures will skyrocket. A lean fuel mixture will leave a white, ashy film on spark plugs.

While bad seals on the carburetor can lean out the fuel mixture, most problems are caused by needle jets clogged by stale fuel. Fuel injected engines are less susceptible to fuel issues, but both Vanguard and Kohler still recommend using a fuel stabilizer with their engines.

When it comes to two strokes, getting the right ratio of fuel to oil is critical. Using too much oil won’t improve lubrication, but it will lean out the air/fuel mixture. This leads to rapid overheating that will shorten the engine’s life.

We Can Help Your Equipment Keep Its Cool

When you need parts, service or replacements for anything you use for landscaping, visit Shank’s Lawn Equipment. We’re an authorized dealer for a wide range of equipment and small engine manufacturers including Briggs & Stratton, Honda Engines, Subaru Industrial Power and Kohler Engines. Visit our shop at

We also ship parts and accessories across the U.S. and Canada. To order, visit www.shankslawn.com.

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The New Scag Freedom Z

Scag Freedom ZDo you wish you could get something as reliable and easy to use as a commercial mower, but you have the budget and needs of a homeowner? The new Scag Freedom Z is a residential mower, but it has most of the features of their commercial models. By using high-quality components, a constructed deck, and thoughtful design, this ZTR makes mowing easy and trouble-free.

As Close as You Can Get to Professional Power

Both versions of the Freedom Z are powered by a Kohler 7000 Series Pro engine. Based on their Command Pro commercial engines, the 7000 Pro uses cast iron cylinder liners and a heavy-duty air filter to reduce engine wear. By Kohler’s own estimates, this engine should last twice as long as their previous residential engines. The similarities between this engine and the Command Pro also allows you to upgrade to professional grade oil filters and fuel filters.

This engine sends power to a pair of Hydro-Gear ZT-2800 transaxles. These integrate the pump and motor into a single case, eliminating the need for hoses. These units can propel the Freedom Z to a top speed of 8 MPH going forward, and up to 5 MPH in reverse.

Deck

Scag offers the Freedom Z with 48 and 52-inch fabricated decks. The deck is welded together from a combination of 10 gauge steel for the top plate, 11 gauge steel reinforcements around the spindles, and a 7 gauge skirt surrounding the blades. This makes the deck more resistant to impacts than the stamped steel decks found on most residential ZTRs. This deck also uses the all steel, maintenance-free spindles found on other Scag mowers. The operator can set the cutting height from 1 to 4.5 inches in ¼ inch increments without leaving the seat.

Over the years, wear and tear will shift the deck’s position. While most residential mowers only have one or two adjustments, the Freedom Z’s deck adjusts at all four corners to get the right angle and pitch for maximum cutting performance. Like Scag’s an Ogura GT PTO clutch transfers power to the deck. It has an adjustable air gap to maintain engagement as the clutch face wears down.

Comfort and Convenience

The operator sits on an adjustable bolstered seat with standard fold-up armrests and an extra large foot plate. A fixed ROPS bar and seatbelt comes standard.

To the right of the seat, there’s a 6.5-gallon fuel tank with large filler neck for easy filling. The battery box and hydraulic oil reservoir are mounted on the left side tank for easy access. A digital hour meter comes standard. 20 x 10 rear tires and 11 x 6 front caster tires spread the load for a smoother ride and minimal turf damage.

Accessories

If you want to mulch, all you need is a steel mulch plate to cover the chute. However, for the best mulching performance, you’ll want to add the Hurricane mulching system. High lift blades and baffles increase vacuum, giving the mower stamped deck performance when mulching.

Want to pick up grass clippings? Scag offers a 7-bushel capacity grass collection system. Looking for the perfect finish? The Tiger Striper kit adds rollers to the back of the ZTR for that ballpark look.

ZTRs aren’t known for towing, but with the trailer hitch, the Freedom Z can pull up to 250 lbs. This is perfect for using utility trailers and broadcast spreaders.

Need more time to mow? There’s a halogen light kit for working in low light conditions.

Need to save space when storing or transporting your ZTR? It can be fitted with the same foldable ROPS used on other Scag mowers.

Warranty

Kohler guarantees the 7000 Series Pro for three years with no hour limit. Scag guarantees the rest of the Freedom Z for one year of commercial use, or up to three years or 500 hours of residential use, whichever comes first.

We’re Serious About Lawn Care

Since 1984, Shank’s Lawn Equipment has been the choice for professionals and homeowners alike when it comes to outdoor power equipment. We’re a full-service dealer for Scag, Hydro-Gear, and Kohler, which means we can service everything on these ZTRs. If you’re looking for a new mower, or you need parts or repairs on your Scag, visit us at 4900 Molly Pitcher Highway in Chambersburg, Pennsylvania.

We also ship OEM parts and accessories across the U.S. and Canada. To order, visit www.shankslawn.com.

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Turf-Teq Equipment: Commercial Power in a Compact Size

Turf Teq EquipmentWhen it comes to landscaping equipment, there’s a large gap between lightweight residential equipment and tractor-powered equipment intended for professional use. Turf Teq fills that gap with their line of landscaping equipment. By combining a two-wheel tractor chassis with professional quality attachments, these machines work fast while still being able to get into tight spaces.

Attachment or Stand-Alone

The multi-use machine is built around a power unit with a 13 HP Honda GX390 and a hydrostatic transaxle with a locking differential. This gives the machine the power to handle attachments, the traction to climb steep slopes, and a tight turning circle for maneuvering around landscape features. All attachments use the same handle-mounted controls. The hydrostatic transmission is operated with a single lever on the right handle. Closing it against the handle moves the unit forward at speeds up to 4.5 MPH, while pushing the top part engages reverse. Angle and clutch controls are mounted on the left handle. A foot pedal locks and unlocks the differential, making it easy to switch between straight tracking and easy turning.

Turf-Teq doesn’t sell the multi-use machine as a stand-alone unit. Instead, they offer it as an option when buying their equipment. The company also offers stand-alone units built on the same platform as the multi-use machine. By eliminating the attachment system, they’re able to offer their equipment at a lower cost. This is a great option if you rent equipment or only need one tool.

Whether you choose a single use machine or a multi-use machine, Turf Teq offers 5 tool options that let you use their equipment throughout the year.

Power Edger

This is the only self-propelled edger and bed opener on the market that operates while moving forward. This makes it easy for operators to cut a clean line when edging. With a maximum speed of 170 feet per minute when grooming and 150 FPM when cutting, it’s also three times faster than competing edgers.

The power edger is perfect for creating and redefining beds, as well as cutting and contouring edges around beds, sidewalks and tree circles. It also cuts trenches up to 2.5 x 7 inches for installing underground cabling and irrigation lines. The head has 5 inches of blade adjustment, and there are 9 blade profiles available, making it easy to get the exact cut you want.

Power Broom

A power broom is the perfect tool for cleaning dirt off of sidewalks, driveways and parking lots, but it can do so much more. When used on grass, it pulls up thatch. When used on artificial turf, the broom safely lifts matted grass. The brush also gets in between the spaces around pavers, sweeping out debris or depositing sand for finishing. In the winter, the broom can pick up the last bit of snow, stopping the formation of ice.

The rotary broom on this machine is 46 inches wide and 18 inches in diameter. The brush pivots 15 degrees left and right, making it easy to push aside debris.

Power Rake

A 36-inch wide drum lets this rake get into areas that are out of reach for larger tractor-mounted units. Welded carbide teeth can dig and scuff soil for seeding, and the height adjustment allows the drum to be kept above the surface to rake without disturbing the turf. Like the power broom, it can operate at an angle to push rocks and soil around for landscaping. The power rake can also mix soil, windrow, level high spots, dethatch and cut slots in the soil for overseeding.

Brush Cutter

This attachment handles brush and thick vegetation that are too thick for standard mowers. The cutting head slices saplings up to two inches in diameter. It’s surrounded by an 11 gauge steel deck and front bumper that shrugs off impacts with trees, buildings, and fences. This deck mounts 12 inches to the left of the power unit, making it easy to cut around fences and get close trees without having to dodge branches.

Power Plow

The oscillating plow blade follows surface contours to pick up the maximum amount of material. This blade can handle snow up to one foot deep, and it works great for grading gravel and leveling soil. An auto-resetting trip spring keeps the plow from striking pavement, protecting the operator and preventing damage to pavement edges.

Get the Power You Need for Professional Landscaping

Shank’s Lawn Equipment is an authorized dealer for Turf Teq and Honda Engines, so we can provide you with complete parts and support you need for your equipment. If you’re looking to add to your lawn care arsenal, or you need help with your current equipment, visit us at 4900 Molly Pitcher Highway in Chambersburg, Pennsylvania.

We also ship OEM parts and accessories across the U.S. and Canada. If you need something for your machine, visit us online at www.shankslawn.com.

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BCS Front Mount Tractors

BCS Front Mount TractorsDo you have several landscaping jobs throughout the year, but don’t want to buy a piece of equipment for each one? Are you not into gardening? BCS’s front mount tractors may be exactly what you need.

These walk-behind tractors are compatible with the company’s front mount attachments, making them perfect for mowing, clearing snow and many other common tasks. By excluding the rear mount system, these two-wheel tractors can’t use graders or tillers. However, this also makes them simpler, lighter and cheaper than the company’s standard tractors.

Model 620 Max

This small tractor is perfect for light field mowing and landscaping work. It’s powered by a Honda GX240 that produces 8 HP. That puts it in line with the Model 722 tractor. The transmission has three working speeds: 0.8, 1.8 and 2.7 mph. It also has a transport gear that gives the 620 a top speed of 8.3 mph.

The 620 Max is compatible with these attachments:

– 30″, 40″ and 45″ sickle bar mowers
– 22″ lawnmower
– 30″ and 40″ power sweepers
– 24″ and 28″ snow thrower
– Log splitter
– Chipper/shredder
– Mowing Sulky

Most attachments will work with the 660 Max without modification. However, the log splitter requires the power cradle kit to increase PTO speed. The snow throwers require either a PTO extension or quick hitch to connect to the tractor.

Model 660 HS

The 660 HS delivers maximum power to handle BCS’s largest front mount attachments. Its Vanguard V-Twin produces 16 HP, three more horsepower than the next most powerful tractor, the Model 750. This engine drives both a PTO for attachments and a hydraulic pump that drives other tractor functions. Hydraulic steering allows precise inputs and low operator effort, while the hydrostatic transmission allows infinitely variable speed control without slowing down attachments. BCS’s exclusive PowerSafe hydraulic clutches are installed on each drive hub. These automatically stop the tractor from rolling backward on hills.

To best match your local terrain, the 660 HS is compatible with a range of wheel options:

– Standard tractor wheels and tires
– Wheels with high flotation tires to drive over sand, mud and soft soil
– Steel wheels for better grip on soft soil
– Cage wheels paired with standard wheels and pneumatic tires for better grip on hills
– Spiked steel wheels for maximum grip on steep slopes and sandy soil
– Tracks for maximum traction on all surfaces including ice and snow

The 660 HS is compatible with the following attachments:

– 40, 45 and 53 inch sickle bar mowers
– All dual action sickle bar mowers
– 30 and 35 inch flail mowers
– 32 inch brush mower
– 30 inch combo mower
– 38 inch lawn mower
– Hay rake
– 40 and 48 inch power sweepers
– 33 inch two stage snow blower
– 40 inch snow blade
– Chipper/shredder
– 36 inch dozer blade
– 26 inch dethatcher
– Buddy cart
– 3.6 and 4.0 pressure washers
– 50 and 85 PSI water pump
– Mowing Sulky

All attachments require a two bolt 750 bushing. The pressure washers and 50 PSI water pump also require a power cradle kit. The snow throwers require either a PTO extension or quick hitch.

For Big Jobs or Small, Shank’s Has the Equipment and Support You Need

If you’re looking to buy a BCS tractor, add some attachments, or have your tractor serviced, come see the experts at Shank’s Lawn Equipment. We have helped local residential and commercial customers with their outdoor equipment for 35 years. Our shop is at 4900 Molly Pitcher Highway in Chambersburg, PA. To get here, take Exit 10 from I-81 and drive one mile East.

Need parts for your BCS America tractor? We can ship what you need to any address in the USA or Canada. To order, visit us online at www.shankslawn.com.

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Mantis Electric Tillers: Are They Right for You?

Mantis Electric Tillers: Are They Right for You?Mantis doesn’t just dominate the mini tiller market, they invented it. Over the years, they’ve updated their line with more powerful two-strokes, lightweight four-strokes, a plug-in model and a new cordless tiller. Are the electric models able to stand up to their gas-powered counterparts?

How do Electric Tillers Compare to Gas Models?

Mantis electric mini tillers don’t seem that different gas tiller, but there are major differences in how they perform.

Electric tillers aren’t as powerful as gas tillers on paper, but it’s hard to make an apples-to-apples comparison. While the peak output of the electric tillers is lower than gas tillers, electric motors make maximum torque as soon as they start spinning. This helps the tines cut through roots and compacted soil far better than the spec sheet suggests. In real-world conditions, most users won’t see much difference in performance.

Both the corded and rechargeable models are only compatible with standard tines. If you want something that can cut extra wide rows or do other jobs like dethatching, you’re better off with a gas tiller. However, if you’re only looking to till and cultivate, there are a lot of reasons to consider electric.

Electric tillers are easy to use. They have zero starting issues: just close the throttle, and the tines will start spinning. An electric motor also doesn’t have a piston moving up and down, so it doesn’t vibrate like a gas engine. You’ll still need to lubricate parts of the machine, and the tines are still susceptible to wear and damage. However, there’s no need to add gas, change the oil, replace spark plugs or clean air filters.

Weight is in line with Mantis’ other mini tillers, which means these models are easy to transport and lift over low fences and into raised beds. They use the same metal worm gear drive found in the company’s gas-powered tillers, while the tines are optimized for electric power.

The 3350 and 3558 are both good choices for landscaping narrow spaces or as a compliment for a larger tiller. For most home gardeners, it makes sense to rent a large tiller to create new garden plots, then maintain the soil with a small electric tiller.

3550 Corded

The 9 amp motor provides maximum power without needing an expensive extension cord rated for mower or generator use. It also won’t flip the breakers when you’re using outdoor outlets around your home. A built-in extension cord holder lets you wind and unwind the cord as needed, just like using a vacuum.

The 3550’s motor operates at two speeds: 360 or 310 RPM. The motor drives 16 tines, giving the 3550 a total tilling width of 12 inches.

The wheels have three positions, lifting the tines high for transport, skimming the surface for cultivation, or digging soil up to 8 inches deep. The handle has three positions to suit operators of any height. It also folds down for storage. Foam grips make the tiller comfortable to use and help absorb bumps from impacts with rocks and other obstacles.

The 3550 weighs 24 lbs. Expect to add two pounds for every 25 feet of extension cord wrapped around the cord holder.

3558 Cordless

Want the flexibility of an electric tiller without having to deal with cords? This new battery-powered tiller uses the same 58-volt system as Mantis’ new rechargeable string trimmer and leaf blower.
Power comes from a 2.5 amp, 60-watt motor with 200 and 300 RPM drive modes. One battery can power the 3558 for up to 30 minutes per charge. It takes just 90 minutes to recharge the battery with the optional 2.5 amp charger.

Many of the features found on the 3550 carry over to this model. It has the same 16 tines, 12-inch tilling width, and maximum 8-inch tilling depth. The foldable, adjustable handle carries over, too. The 3558 weighs 26 lbs. with the battery installed.

Get the Tools You Need for the Garden You Want

Shank’s Lawn Equipment is a certified dealer for landscape equipment manufacturers ranging from Mantis to Woods. That means we offer everything from these lightweight electric tillers to industrial grade farm equipment. To find a tiller that’s a good fit for your garden, visit our shop at 4900 Molly Pitcher Highway, Chambersburg, PA. That’s one mile East of I-81 from Exit 10/Marion.

Need to fix something on your Mantis tiller? Want to get more use out of your gas model? We ship OEM parts and accessories across the U.S. and Canada. To order, visit us at www.shankslawn.com.

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Fixing Common Issues on Wright Stander Intensity Mowers

Fixing Common Issues on Wright Stander Intensity MowersAre you having trouble getting your Wright Stander Intensity mower to track straight? Is it not leaving the finish you want when you cut grass? Here’s what you need to know to adjust the hydraulic motors and deck to get your ZTR mowing like it should.

Neutral Adjustment

When parked on a flat surface, the mower should not move when the parking brake is off, the engine is at full throttle and the levers are untouched. If it does, do the following:

1. Lift the rear of the mower onto jack stands so that the drive wheels are off of the ground.
2. Look at the side that is moving when in neutral. Follow the handle down to the hydraulic pump. Loosen the ¼ inch Allen bolt directly below the spring.
3. Start the engine. Rotate the “RTN” knob behind the Allen bolt until the wheel stops spinning.
4. Shut off the engine. Tighten down the Allen bolt.

Tracking

Checking Tracking
1. Check the tire pressure for both rear tires. They need to be equal.
2. Drive the mower across a level surface at full throttle with both control levers pushed forward all the way. The mower should stay straight.

Adjusting Tracking
1. Park the mower and shut off the engine.
2. Loosen the jam nuts on the rods that connect to the hydraulic pumps.
3. Turning the rod adjusts how far it opens the valve on the hydraulic pump. If the mower turns to the side you’re working on with the levers fully engaged, spin the rod counter-clockwise to lengthen it and open the valve more. If the mower turns in the opposite direction, turn the rod clockwise to close the valve.
4. Tighten the jam nuts. Check the tracking again and repeat the previous steps if the mower is still not tracking straight.

Getting Maximum Ground Speed

The valves on the hydraulic pumps need to open fully to reach the mower’s maximum speed.

1. Park the mower and shut off the engine.
2. Loosen the jam nut on the rods that connect to the hydraulic pumps.
3. Rotate each rod counter-clockwise one turn and push the control lever forward. Repeat until pushing the control lever forces the rod into the internal pump stop.
4. Rotate each rod clockwise one turn. Tighten the jam nut.

After making this adjustment, check the mower tracking.

Moving the Stander Intensity When it Won’t Start

Open the hydraulic bypass valves by turning the levers next to the pump inlet hoses counter-clockwise two turns. This disengages the drive system, making the mower easy to push.

Addressing PTO Problems

1. Shut off the engine, remove the key and let the mower cool off. Check the belt and the wiring to the PTO clutch.
2. Disconnect the clutch wire and turn on the blade switch. Check for power from the harness. The blue wire that goes to the red clutch wire sends power from the PTO switch, while the black and orange wire is the ground. If there is no voltage, check the relay, operator presence switch, and PTO switch.
3. If there is power going through the wires, check the clutch. Replace the clutch if there’s a large gap between the plates. Sometimes, a worn clutch will work when cold, but as it heats up, resistance increases, preventing the magnetic coil from engaging the mechanism.
4. If the clutch looks OK, check the resistance on the clutch wiring. It should be around 1.84 ohms. Lower resistance indicates a shorted coil, while a high or infinite reading is caused by an open or burnt out coil. Either way, the coil needs to be replaced.

Deck Pitch and Side-to-Side Adjustment

For the best performance, the front of the deck should be ¼ inch lower than the rear, and the deck should be level from side to side.

1. Park the mower on a flat surface. Check the tire pressure, making sure both tires are equal.
2. Set the deck pin and lower the deck to a cutting height of inches.
3. Measure the front and rear of the blade tips. The front should be three inches from the ground, and the rear 3 1/8 to 3 1/4” inches from the ground.
4. To adjust the height, loosen the deck lift bracket nuts, then use a ½ inch ratchet and extension to raise or lower the lift arm. Tighten the nuts to 45 ft-lbs.
5. Remeasure the blade tips and readjust the height as needed.

Need Help with Your Wright Mower?

Shank’s Lawn Equipment is an authorized dealer for Wright Manufacturing, which means we don’t just sell these mowers, we also able to offer the parts and service you need to keep your stander running. Visit our shop at 4900 Molly Pitcher Highway, Chambersburg, PA.

We also ship OEM parts for Wright and many other brands of lawn care equipment across the U.S. and Canada. If you need something for your mower, visit us online at www.shankslawn.com.

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